Spasso in MinnetonkaBy Richard Crawford

Spasso, a new Italian restaurant in Minnetonka, offers a flavorful addition to suburban dining.

The restaurant, which opened in March, is an independently owned establishment that is tied to the neighboring The Wine Shop at the intersection of Highway 101 and Minnetonka Boulevard.

Patrons might feel as if they’re dining in the warehouse district of Minneapolis rather than Minnetonka when they eat at Spasso.

The high ceilings, dark woods and stained-glass art accents combined with a lively atmosphere make it a change of pace.

Our party of four enjoyed dinner on a Friday night. We arrived early to avoid the heavy traffic. Spasso only takes reservations for groups of eight or more.

The service was great, starting from shortly after our arrival when we were greeted and escorted to our table.

The menu offers Italian staples, ranging from light salads to pizzas to pasta. There are also homegrown items including burgers and a walleye focaccia.

One of the big draws for Spasso has been the extensive wine list, made possible with the alliance with The Wine Shop.

There are 140 wines on the list that features plenty of Italian offerings as well as bottles from around the world. You can buy by the glass or bottle at relative low cost. That’s one of the advantages of owning a wine store next door.

We enjoyed a nice Australian Cabernet that came on recommendation.

To get things going on the dining front, we sampled some crabcakes and an antipasto plate. The crabcakes went fast, despite being a little on the greasy side.

For entrees, we ordered the Mediterranean fettuccini, with roasted tomatoes, artichokes, spinach, olives, capers and preserved lemon. The lemon flavor was strong.

Our younger diners gave strong recommendations to the mac & cheese (penne with white cheddar sauce, bacon and scallions) and the pepperoni pizza, made with fresh mozzarella and marinara.

I had the pork prime rib, slow roasted with sautéed spinach, red potatoes and sweet onion marmalade. I loved it, but again the onion marmalade wasn’t subtle.

We topped off our dinner by sharing a lemon cheesecake and gelato ice cream for dessert. The cheesecake was light and whipped.

General Manager Matt Urspringer said business has been good during the restaurant’s first few months of operation.

Parking can be a challenge during peak times at the busy intersection.

In the near term, Urspringer said the restaurant is planning to tweak the menu with a few new appetizers and new tuna and pasta entrees. But the wine will always remain a highlight at Spasso.

Urspringer confirmed diners generally will not find a wine list as vast and at such reasonable prices at area restaurants.

Spasso
Location: 17523 Minnetonka Blvd., Minnetonka
Information: 952-224-9555; www.spassomn.com
Appetizers: $5-$9

Entrees: $9-$28

Bottles of wine: $19-$130, (average range is $25 - $50); wine also available by the glass

Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat.
11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.; Sunday brunch 10 a.m.-2 p.m.; Sunday dinner 2:30 p.m.-9 p.m.